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We visited Croatia during the time of the coronavirus when it was classified as a green country, aiming to dedicate most of our time to the Istrian Peninsula. The Istrian Peninsula is a beautiful region, rich in vineyards, stunning nature, landscapes, gourmet restaurants, and picturesque seaside towns along the Adriatic Sea.
The peninsula is known for its black and white truffles that grow in the area depending on the season. Fortunately, September is the season for both types of truffles, and during this time of the year, you'll hardly find a restaurant in the area that doesn't serve dishes rich in fresh truffles. Generally, the cuisine in the region is influenced by nearby northern Italy, so if you're a fan of pasta and meats, this is the place for you throughout the year.
We rented a car with pickup and drop-off in Zagreb, allowing us to travel around until returning to Zagreb on the last day. In my opinion, having a car is essential for this type of trip, which includes moving between villages, stops at points of interest along the way, and fully embracing the spontaneity of each day's itinerary.
Accommodation
We divided our accommodation during the trip into two parts. On the night of arrival, we drove straight to the village of Motovun, where we spent two nights. Afterward, we moved to Rovinj for an additional three nights.
Note that there is no parking in the old town in both villages, so parking is available outside the city. It's a short walk from both, which is worthwhile in my opinion, but it's something to consider for those less inclined.
Motovun
We stayed at Villa borgo , a small and charming hotel in the heart of the village with stunning views and delicious breakfast.
Rovinj
We booked an Airbnb apartment in the heart of the old town. There aren't many hotels in the heart of the old town, so for those interested in being within walking distance of attractions and entertainment venues, I recommend opting for an apartment.
Towns and Points of Interest in Istria
In general, my recommendation is to visit the central square in every town you visit and explore the streets, soak in the atmosphere, and visit the main points of interest along the way. This area is heavily touristic, so there's always signage to the "important" spots, making it easy to navigate.
Motovun
As I mentioned, we spent the first two days in Motovun. It's a small medieval town that gives you a feeling of stepping back in time. It sits atop a high hill, overlooking the stunning surroundings, many of which are vineyards and excellent wineries in the area. It's located in the eastern part, allowing easy access to several nearby towns within a short driving distance. It's worth dedicating half a day to exploring Motovun itself.
Groznjan
A beautiful village of artists, Groznjan is filled with galleries and shops featuring local artists, as well as stores selling mushrooms, cheeses, olive oil, and wines. It's delightful to wander through the streets and simply soak in the atmosphere of the place.
Buje
A small and somewhat less preserved town, Buje is worth a visit only if you happen to pass by on your way from Groznjan.
Novigrad
A beautiful town on the shores of the Adriatic Sea, Novigrad boasts a pleasant promenade, restaurants, and shops. For those interested in swimming, it's worth knowing in advance that most of the beaches here aren't sandy but rather rocky, at best. Locals often bring beach mats or sports mattresses to make sunbathing more comfortable.
Porec
A stunning town in the northern part of the peninsula, Porec is recommended for strolling through its streets, visiting the ancient site recognized by UNESCO, and marveling at the view from the old town's tower. Porec also boasts a relatively convenient beach near the Delfin Hotel.
Lim Fjord
Located about a forty-minute drive north of Rovinj, there are many lookout points along the main road even before descending to the waterline. Once you go down, don't miss the oyster farm located just to the left, the first one you encounter. It consists of several boats connected by gangways, where they serve fresh oysters, mussels, and house wine only. The freshest oysters straight from the sea, it's perfect!
Rovinj
Probably the most touristy town in the area, Rovinj is located right in the middle of the peninsula's coastline, allowing easy access to many attractions in the area. As I mentioned, there's no vehicular access to the heart of the old town; it's narrow alleyways and plenty of stairs. The town is rich in restaurants and bars. You can watch breathtaking sunsets from the promenade or one of the cocktail bars in town and enjoy a meal at excellent restaurants. Also, the only Michelin-starred restaurant in Istria Peninsula is located here in Rovinj.
Pula
The largest city in the Istria Peninsula, located in the southern part of the peninsula. In Pula, there are several archaeological sites, including an impressive Roman amphitheater, which is the largest archaeological monument in all of Croatia.
Kamenjak Park
A large nature reserve located in the southernmost part of the peninsula. The reserve features several beautiful beaches, impressive cliffs overlooking the water, and breathtaking scenery. The park is extensive and includes bars and restaurants, making it worth dedicating a full day to explore. Entrance to the reserve requires a fee, 40 Kuna per car for the entire day. Note that some of the trails may require off-road vehicles, but most can also be accessed on foot.
Wineries in Istria
Throughout Istria, you'll encounter signs directing you to wine tastings, as the entire region is filled with both small and large wineries. One of the most common and unique grape varieties in the area is called Malvazija, and you'll find it in many wineries producing excellent dry white wine.
Kozlovic Winery - Offers the most beautiful scenery for wine tasting. It's an excellent place to sample wines, and they also serve cheese platters, sausages, and small dishes for those looking to pair them with tastings.
Roxanich Winery - Situated at the foot of the town of Motovun within a luxury hotel. In fact, the hotel was built after the winery and sits above it. It's a vast winery, built on five levels underground. Don't miss the winery tour (reservation required)!
Benazic Winery - A family-owned winery located right at the family home, specializing in white wines. It's situated along the Istrian wine road. You can combine tastings with various food options.
Restaurants in Istria
Stari Podrum Restaurant - Located a 2-minute drive from Kozlovic Winery (recommended to combine).
Konoba Mondo Restaurant - Situated in the heart of Motovun and specializes in local truffles. During the white truffle season, they dedicate a separate page in their menu exclusively for dishes with white truffles. Absolutely delicious!
Sveti Nicola Restaurant - Along the promenade in Porec. They serve perfect seafood and fish dishes!
Tutto Bene Restaurant - A small restaurant in Rovinj run by the chef and his wife. Perfect seafood dishes. It's advisable to make a reservation in advance.
Breakfast at Hotel Adriatic - A hotel in the center of Rovinj. High-quality breakfast.
Mediterraneo Cocktail Bar in Rovinj - Excellent cocktails and an amazing view of the sunset. It's recommended to arrive early if you want a place with an open view.
Monte Restaurant - An amazing restaurant!!! Adorned with a Michelin star, it's considered the best restaurant in Istria. It offers three options of tasting menus with the possibility of adjustments. Reservations are recommended.
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