I stumbled upon Istanbul during the pandemic. It had always intrigued me, and I knew I would get there someday, but it never quite materialized into concrete plans. Then came the pandemic, which, despite all the challenges it brought, pushed me out of my comfort zone. It made me stop planning too far ahead and just go with the flow.
So, there I was, spending two and a half weeks in Istanbul—working, exploring, and discovering a world that was both so close and yet so far from home. It was an unexpected adventure that turned into an incredible journey of discovery.
Exploring Istanbul: A City of Two Continents
Istanbul is Turkey's largest city, with estimates of its population ranging from 11 to 15 million people. It's also the largest city in the world spanning two continents: Europe and Asia. Built on seven hills, Istanbul is a city full of ups and downs, so comfortable shoes are a must for exploring its varied terrain.
The city is immense, lacking a single central hub. Instead, it is divided into several neighborhoods, each with its own unique character and charm. Broadly speaking, you can categorize the city into three main areas: the Asian side, east of the Bosphorus River, and two key areas on the European side— the Old City and Taksim Square.
For a historic stay, I recommend the Hagia Sophia area in the Old City, where you can immerse yourself in the city's rich history. Most tourists opt to stay on the European side, particularly around Taksim or in the Old City. However, if you're visiting Istanbul for a second time and have already explored many of its main attractions, consider staying on the Asian side. It offers a chance to experience a different side of Istanbul and enjoy the local Turkish bohemian vibe.
Getting Around Istanbul: A Personal Guide
For me, the biggest challenge in Istanbul was navigating the city's extensive transportation network. The city is vast, and moving from one area to another can be quite challenging. I highly recommend purchasing an Istanbulkart, a rechargeable card that allows you to travel on all forms of public transportation—metro, buses, trains, and ferries. You can buy and top up the card at automatic machines located throughout the city.
Here’s a tip: you can use a single Istanbulkart for multiple people. However, note that any remaining balance on the card cannot be refunded at the end of your trip. Therefore, I suggest initially loading around 50 lira per couple if you’re planning to stay a few days in the city. You can always add more to the card as needed.
Neighborhoods, Recommended Areas, and Attractions in Istanbul
The Old City
The Old City is the heart of Istanbul's tourism scene, home to many of the city's most impressive attractions. Here, you’ll find iconic sites such as the Blue Mosque, Hagia Sophia, the Suleymaniye Mosque, and the grand bazaars. The Old City features a pedestrianized street lined with restaurants and shops, offering a vibrant atmosphere.
Vehicle access to the heart of the Old City is restricted, but public transportation can take you right into the area. For accommodation, I recommend the Hagia Sophia Mansions, a Hilton hotel that occupies a large area in the district. It’s an impressive property with a hammam and a gym, providing both luxury and convenience during your stay.
Topkapı Palace: A Majestic Journey Through Ottoman History
Located in the Old City on the European side of Istanbul, Topkapı Palace was once the official residence of the Ottoman sultans. This sprawling complex consists of numerous smaller buildings surrounded by four courtyards, each contributing to its grandeur. The palace's name, Topkapı, translates to "Cannon Gate," reflecting its proximity to a gate of the same name that faces the Bosphorus.
Topkapı Palace is so vast that it’s easy to spend an entire day exploring its many corners. At the main entrance, you can rent an audio guide. However, be aware that it mainly reads the information from the signs at each site without offering much additional context.
Your entrance ticket grants access to most areas of the palace, except for the Harem, which requires a separate ticket.
Hagia Sophia: A Timeless Icon
Hagia Sophia, or "Ayasofya" in Turkish, is renowned as one of the most remarkable examples of Byzantine art and architecture, and it is one of the most famous buildings in the world. Constructed in the 6th century by Emperor Justinian I, Hagia Sophia originally served as an Orthodox Christian cathedral.
Following the Ottoman conquest of Istanbul in the 15th century, the building was converted into a mosque. From then until July 2020, it functioned as a museum, preserving its legacy through various historical periods. However, since July 2020, under new government directives, Hagia Sophia has once again become a functioning mosque, now known as the "Grand Mosque of Hagia Sophia."
The blend of its rich history, architectural grandeur, and continued significance makes Hagia Sophia a must-visit landmark in Istanbul.
The Blue Mosque: Sultanahmet Camii
The Blue Mosque, or Sultanahmet Camii, is located in the Old City directly across from Hagia Sophia. Commissioned in the 17th century by Sultan Ahmed I, after whom the mosque is named, it also houses the Sultan's tomb. The mosque was deliberately constructed facing Hagia Sophia, which was a church at the time, and in a similar architectural style, to demonstrate that Islamic architecture could surpass Christian design in grandeur.
Today, the Blue Mosque remains an active place of worship. It is closed to visitors during prayer times but is open for free visits at other times. Remember to dress modestly when visiting; if needed, you can rent appropriate coverings at the entrance.
Süleymaniye Mosque: A Majestic Landmark
The Süleymaniye Mosque is the largest mosque in Istanbul and one of its most renowned landmarks. Built during the reign of Sultan Süleyman the Magnificent, the mosque also houses the Sultan’s tomb. From the mosque’s courtyard, you can enjoy a stunning panoramic view of the city.
Entry to the mosque is free of charge. However, access to the prayer area requires modest dress: long pants or skirts for women (no shorts or sleeveless tops) and head coverings for women. Free coverings are available at the entrance.
If you have to choose just one mosque to visit, I highly recommend the Süleymaniye Mosque. Its grand and expansive complex, breathtaking views, and captivating architecture make it a truly impressive site.
Grand Bazaar: Istanbul’s Iconic Market
The Grand Bazaar is a sprawling covered market that extends across 61 streets and is one of the largest markets in the world. Located in the Old City, it attracts around 400,000 visitors daily to over 3,000 shops. The bazaar is renowned for its jewelry, carpets, and clothing stores.
While it’s a fascinating place to visit, especially if you’re interested in Turkish goods, I find it more of a tourist attraction unless you’re specifically looking to buy carpets or unique Turkish merchandise. Besides shopping, the Grand Bazaar offers a range of local eateries where you can sample fresh tea and delicious Turkish delight. It's a vibrant and lively spot, perfect for soaking up the local atmosphere and indulging in some tasty treats!
Egyptian Spice Bazaar: A Feast for the Senses
The Egyptian Spice Bazaar, also known as the Misir Çarşısı, is a vast covered market and the second largest in Istanbul after the Grand Bazaar. It's renowned for its vibrant array of spices, herbs, and other culinary delights. If you’re looking to buy Turkish delight to take home, this is definitely the place to do it.
The bazaar’s colorful stalls and aromatic offerings create a sensory experience that's not to be missed. Whether you're a spice enthusiast or just want to pick up some unique gifts, the Egyptian Spice Bazaar is a must-visit destination for food lovers and shoppers alike.
Taksim District: Istanbul’s Vibrant Hub
The Taksim District centers around Taksim Square, home to the Republic Monument. This area is known for its lively nightlife, shopping, and dining options. From the square, you can explore Istiklal Avenue, a bustling pedestrian street lined with shops, cafes, and restaurants.
Taksim is a popular area among tourists, including many from Israel, but it can be a bit tricky. Some of the alleys near the square may feel less pleasant in the evening. If you choose to stay in this area, it's advisable to stay a bit south of the square, in the side streets of Istiklal Avenue, for a more comfortable and secure experience.
Istiklal Avenue: Istanbul’s Shopping and Dining Mecca
Istiklal Avenue is a bustling, long boulevard that stretches from Taksim Square to the Galata Tower. This lively street features a mix of local shops and international chain stores, offering a diverse shopping experience.
Along the avenue, you'll find numerous side streets filled with bars and restaurants. These spots become particularly vibrant and crowded in the evenings, making it a popular area for both locals and tourists to enjoy dining and nightlife. Whether you're looking to shop or just soak in the energetic atmosphere, Istiklal Avenue is a must-visit destination in Istanbul.
Galata Tower: A Iconic Istanbul Landmark
At the end of Istiklal Avenue, you’ll find Galata Tower, one of the most distinctive landmarks on Istanbul’s northern skyline. The original tower was destroyed during the Fourth Crusade and was rebuilt in 1348. By 1190, it was renovated and opened to the public as a viewpoint.
In the evenings, you’ll often see a line of people waiting to ascend the tower, as it is renowned for its stunning sunset views. The area surrounding Galata Tower is charming and tourist-friendly, featuring a variety of shops and cafes, making it a delightful spot to explore before or after your visit to the tower.
Galata Bridge: Connecting Istanbul’s Past and Present
Just south of Galata Tower, you'll find Galata Bridge, which connects the northern part of Istanbul with the Old City to the southwest. The bridge is a popular spot for fishermen, who can be seen casting their lines throughout the day.
Galata Bridge offers especially beautiful views at sunset. If you’d rather skip the line at Galata Tower, consider heading just five minutes south to the bridge for a picturesque sunset experience over the Bosphorus. It’s a perfect spot to soak in the city's vibrant atmosphere and enjoy a stunning end to the day.
Karaköy: A Vibrant Waterfront District
If you cross Galata Bridge and head left towards the waterfront, you'll quickly reach the lively neighborhood of Karaköy. This area is renowned for its vibrant bar and restaurant scene. In the evenings, Karaköy comes alive with numerous street food stalls offering a wide array of Istanbul’s culinary delights. It’s a great place to sample local street food and enjoy the bustling atmosphere.
Balat: A Colorful Slice of History
Balat, the historic Jewish quarter of Istanbul, is located in the western part of the city. This charming neighborhood is known for its narrow, colorful three-story houses, which stand out from the typical architectural styles found elsewhere in Istanbul. Balat is less touristy, making it a perfect spot for a morning visit. I recommend stopping by one of the local cafes for breakfast and then wandering through the picturesque alleys to soak in the area's unique character and history.
Kadıköy: Istanbul’s Bohemian Oasis
Kadıköy is a residential neighborhood on the Asian side of Istanbul, easily accessible via the Bosphorus Bridge or a ferry ride. Known as the city’s bohemian hub, Kadıköy offers a unique experience distinct from other areas in Istanbul—think of it as the Turkish equivalent of Florentin in Tel Aviv.
At the heart of Kadıköy, you'll find a bustling fish and fruit market surrounded by countless restaurants, cafes, small shops, tattoo studios, and art galleries. The Moda area, at the edge of the neighborhood, features a pleasant promenade that becomes particularly lively at sunset.
Kadıköy is less touristy and has been gaining popularity in recent years. I spent a week here and enjoyed every moment. If you have the time and have already explored the main attractions of Istanbul, I highly recommend dedicating two or three days to immerse yourself in the unique atmosphere of Kadıköy.
Dolmabahçe Palace: A Glimpse into Ottoman Opulence
Located on the European side of Istanbul, near the Beşiktaş neighborhood, Dolmabahçe Palace served as the residence of the Ottoman sultans from the mid-19th century until the fall of the empire. Constructed in 1854, Dolmabahçe was built to meet the sultans' need for a more modern living space, as Topkapı Palace no longer sufficed.
Designed in a Turkish Renaissance style, Dolmabahçe Palace is renowned for its lavish interiors, including numerous carpets, crystal chandeliers, and luxurious furniture. The palace is still occasionally used for official receptions by the Turkish government.
The palace complex is vast, and you can purchase tickets for either partial or full access. I recommend setting aside half a day to explore this grand estate and fully appreciate its historical and architectural splendor.
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